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My Travel Bucket List – 3 Months In

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Before I embarked upon this journey  wrote a little bucket list of things I wanted to see, do and experience. 3 months in, I thought I’d see how I’m doing, so here is my UPDATED bucket list…

READ MY ORIGINAL TRAVEL BUCKET LIST

1. Get a massage

Still a big fat no, the thought of an old Thai/Indian/Balinese woman crawling all over my naked body fills me with fear. Having now actually seen the famous Thai massage I can honestly say I will go to my grave without ever having one, gladly.

FAIL

2. Have a holiday romance

I guess I’ve had a little ‘romance’, I’ve had 4 Tinder dates, 2 non-Tinder dates, a few snogs, a few disappointing experiences, a dalliance in a hut… so I’m getting by. But no big romance… yet.

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3. See the Taj Mahal

Yep, seen it. It was magical but obviously the one time I see it it had scaffolding on. FML.

WIN

4. Not swim with dolphins

Still haven’t and yes they still annoy me, but I did swim with elephants (a much more agreeable creature).

WIN

5. Go tubing in Laos

I actually am now not going to Laos, my plans have changed a lot BUT due to this I got to go to Bali which I loved so I still win. I kinda went tubing in Thailand too so…

WIN-ISH

6. Be moved to tears

Almost… almost. India had a lot of beautiful sights. Pushkar and the lake ceremony had me feeling tearful but the only time I’ve actually, properly cried on this trip is when I lost my bank card, when I had my heart broken (slight exaggeration) and I f*cking wept when I got lost on a scooter in the middle of the jungle, alone, at night with no phone battery and no idea where my hostel was… for an hour.

FAIL

7. See the Southern Lights

Not yet – they’re in NZ.

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8. Touch an elephant

YASSSSS KWEEN. All over!

WIN

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9. Rent a bicycle

In Gili T. all I did was cycle round and it was sooo much fun. I had one of the best days of my life cycling round there listening to One Dance by Drake.

Read all about Gili T.

WIN

10. Make some amazing memories

Yes, yes indeed… check out my instagram for photographic evidence. Notable memories are swimming in the clearest ocean ever in Gili. Partying at Eden. Rafting in Thailand. Seeing all the beautiful palaces in India. Bali (all of it).

WIN

11. Prove my theory that I can’t get bitten by mosquitoes

Okay so this did not happen. In Varanasi I got bit literally 100 times in 5 minutes on the Ganges and I think I had an anaphylactic shock. I get roughly 20 bites each day, huge angry ones and mosquitoes manage to bite me THROUGH my clothing. How the mighty have fallen. I have no blood left in me.

BIG FAT FAIL

12. Eat Cerviche in Lima, Peru

Not yet but the food in India and bali was heavenly especially the food I cooked at a Sikh temple in India.

WIN

13. Visit the desert town of Huacachina in Peru

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14. Do something that scares me

To be perfectly honest, travelling itself scared me, and I’ve been doing that for 3 months. I get scared I’m missing out on things happening at home, that my career is over, that I’m not doing the whole backpacking thing ‘right’, that I look hideous in a bikini... and I’m overcoming these things just by being here (currently in Kuala Lumpur airport).

One thing that does stick out is driving a moped, which I said I would never do because I am terrified of motorbikes and scooters, but due to circumstance I kinda had to and I feel more comfortable driving myself than being on the back of someone else’s bike. So now I can drive a scooter – I can’t even drive a car – and my navigation is getting better, plus I’m a whizz at navigating traffic and riding on the sidewalk thanks to 4 years cycling in central London. Oh and it’s pretty fun too.

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So that’s my 3 month update, I’ll do this again in another few months and see where we’re at, but I think this is a good start, no?

What’s on your bucket list?

 

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JungleFish, Ubud Bali Review

*WARNING* Overzealous use of superlatives, hyperbole and general gushing in this article. Sorry in advance.

Jungle Fish is a bar/restaurant in the middle of the jungle which features a breathtaking infinity pool. Words and pictures can do this place no justice, but let me say this; my friend Amanda had tears of joy/awe in her eyes when we arrived. It’s that magical.

Surprisingly it’s not that well known I don’t think, after speaking with people here in Bali it’s definitely still under the radar. My Tinder habit/addiction came through once again as it was a potential date who told me about this place. Seriously I get so many travel tips from Tinder – even if you’re not single it’s worth using it for that.

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My JungleFish ensemble.

You have to spend 150,000 Rupiah minimum to use the Jungle Fish pool, but that’s only about £8. My friends and I spent an afternoon there enjoying their sublime food, fluffy towels, excellent service and out-of-this-world cocktails. Happy hour is from 4pm to 7pm and gets you 40% off drinks; try the Conchita which is lime juice, ginger, tequila and chilli and my new favourite tipple, and they do a mean Daiquiri too.

The food here comes as small plates, possibly sharing but I’m too bloody greedy for that. The chips (or fries for my american readers) are really quite something, we ordered three plates of them. Excellent also were the Greek meatball, chicken satay and edamame beans.

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We decided to just throw caution to the wind and treat ourselves (hashtag #treatyoself) for once so we ate and drank with abandon and we only spent about £18 each! I like had the credit card on ice thinking I’d have blown the budget completely and it’s actually super reasonable.

The building or complex is gorgeous, really modern but made with natural materials like beech wood, stone and organic-toned glazed ceramic tiles. Very Grand Designs. You enter a lovely reception then go down a few flights of stairs past coy carp ponds and sculptures, past a chi chi restaurant until you reach the top of the infinity pool and take in the most breathtaking view of the jungle. There’s nothing there but lush green trees and you – and you’re really high up above the jungle floor. It’s honestly one of, or maybe the nicest place I’ve ever been and I’m sorry my vocabulary doesn’t capture the majesty of Jungle Fish.

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KWEEN of the jungle!

You need a bike to get to Jungle Fish and it’s quite a ‘fun’ drive through rice fields right into the heart of the jungle, so bear that in mind if you want to get really pissed – you’ll have to navigate your way back. Just drive safe, check your lights are working and use Maps.me in case you get lost.

Jungle Fish Bali, Jalan Raya Sebali, Ubud, Kec. Gianyar, Bali

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Seminayk, Bali

Seminyak was my least favourite place in Bali, it was just soulless, dull and boring. Full of resorts with an ugly beach and little to no nightlife. Plus it was full of traffic, quite urban and built up and had no natural beauty.

But I was recommended this place by many people so I went, WTF they were thinking I know not, but I gave it a crack. I’d recommend you skip Seminyak but if you have to see it for yourself don’t spend longer than a coupe of days there.

Stay

Capsule Hotel which is actually a hostel is amazing, there’s huge common area and bar, roof terrace and movie room. There are dorms but my friends and I styed in a private room for 5 people which was split level with the comfiest beds ever. It was like staying in a New York loft.

Despite the impressive facilities and nice staff (hi Neil) the hostel didn’t really do it for me. I got the sense it was massively overcompensating for the location which is in the middle of nowhere. The beach was a taxi ride away and there were no clubs, markets, bars or cafes in the area.

Drink

Potato Head beach club is lovely but very overpriced, its decor is so chi chi and the infinity pool is lovely but ultimately it lacks atmosphere and it’s hard to get a sunbed.

Dance

Favela is apparently the only club here, I did my research and asked at least 10 people (locals and tourists) where the went out and the answer was always Favela or Kuta. Like, just stay in Kuta then!

Do

I don’t know. I honestly do not know. The beach is gross with loads of crabs, no shade and dirty sand and most of it is private and for use only by those staying in a resort. It is easy to get to neighbouring Kuta and Canggu though.

Verdict

Admittedly I only spent two days in Seminyak but I just didn’t want to waste my time hanging around a hostel when there’s so much to do in Bali. If you’re staying in one of the swish resorts I’m sure that’s nice, but it’s not for backpackers. I’d recommend staying in Canggu or Kuta and biking to Seminyak if you need to go there.

3/5

Update: I actually went back to Seminyak on my scooter while I was staying in Kuta and it was a short 15 min drive – I visited Potatohead and Alchemy and I changed my mind slightly about this place. There are lots of more upmarket cafes and boutiques if you want a treat. So I think my initial impression was a little harsh. Hey, I’m always honest and I’ll always give a place a second chance. 

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Kuta, Bali and Why You Should Definitely Visit

Everyone told me not to go, people said it was the Aussie Magaluf, they said I’d get mugged, or conned and I’d hate it… and I went anyway because that’s my MO, reverse psychology and me are great mates. Tell me not to, and I will, out of spite.

So I went to Kuta expecting to hate it but wanting to find out for myself, and I can honestly say EVERYONE WAS WRONG! Kuta is great, soooo much fun, and it’s cheap, and the shopping is great, and it’s pretty. And I’m going back.

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Kuta beach at Sunset

Where to stay

I stayed at Funky Monkey hostel which had a one month old puppy there, need I say more? No! But I will… the hostel cosy around £5 a night and had a fab pool where you could play your own music (I am an eternal DJ) and chill, also free pancakes 24/7! However, this hostel had no wifi, and after researching a bit (asking a guest who’d been there 3 weeks previously) I discovered they never have wifi despite advertising it. They do however sell sim cards in the reception. Coincidence, I think not!

So I moved he their sister hostel Captain Goose which is basically exactly the same only bigger, newer, cleaner and cheaper. And it has wifi. The pool parties we had there were legendary (probably) and the location is great. Plus you still gt free pancakes and there’s a water filter (I hate buying bottles of water now, after 3 month traveling I must’ve spent… well, lots.

Captain Goose, Poppies 1, Kuta £4.50 per night

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Captain Goose has the best pool!

Where to eat

TJ’s Mexican is a beautiful restaurant with an indoor pond, coy carp and the most glorious mayan decor. They serve some delicious cocktails (I can vouch fo the caprinia, daiquiri and margarita) and some delish beef tacos. A really cool place to eat with friends or a date.

Sky Garden is a huge club that also has an all-you-can-eat offer from 5pm-9pm for 199,000 Rupiah which is about £10, oh and it’s also ALL YOU CAN DRINK. I was in heaven, the food is incredible and it’s so well organised it has to be seen to be believed. I’ve never almost vomited in a club from eating too many chicken wings.

TJ’s, Poppies 1, Kuta

Sky Garden, Jalan Legian No. 61, Kuta, Kabupaten Badung

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TJ’s – so cute!

Where to party

The main street in Kuta, Legian, is positively brimming with bars and clubs and the best thing is, by some joyous Indonesian quirk, they all play either hip hop, rap, trap, reggae or a combination of the four. No horrible euro-trash EDM music here (I’m looking at you all of Thailand). Kuta is a place you can really get down.

Engine Room is probably the best in terms of music and I also met he Balinese Tyga here (if he was like 2 foot taller I would have wifeyed him) he was Tyga’s twin, and the best dancer, and he had  the 100 emoji tattooed under his eye like he’d murdered a frickin’ iPhone, ‘Bitches’ tattooed above his eyebrow and a wonderful tat that said ‘Niggaz’ on his neck. What a  dude, I wasn’t offended as an emoji-lover, woman or person of colour (such was the power of his dancing). 

Apache is the reggae bar here which is sooooooo ‘reggae’ it hurts, I have never seen so much red, gold and green merch or so many pictures of the late great Bob Marley in one place. The aforementioned Sky Garden of ‘all you can eat/drink’ fame gets pretty poppin’ as you can imagine.

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Partying with the Funky Monkey crew on Legain.

What to do

Learn to surf! The beach at Kuta is ideal for beginners and you can just roll on down to the sand and pay a long-haired, tanned Balinese dude to teach you for about £2-3. Then you can enjoy a Bintang with him. The beach is seriously very cool. with tons of cute surfers, good cheap food and reggae.

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Who says Kuta’s not pretty?

Verdict:

5/5

A note: Although I personally loved Kuta and had the most incredible time I did meet several people who were mugged or pick-pocketed. They were all either drunk or walking alone when it happened so it is quite opportunistic, just be careful and don’t walk home alone, pissed at night. There are also a lot of people selling drugs who will then extort you or dob you in to the cops. Don’t risk it. Wait til you go to Gili T. which has no po po.

Why You *NEED* to Visit Gili Trawangan

I instantly fell in love with the tiny island of Gili Trawangan and despite still not knowing exactly where it is, I know I will definitely come back here. In fact I write this on my second Gili T trip, in bed sadly weakened by a savage chest infection. Ah well, if I can’t play I’ll blog so you lovely peeps can learn all about Gili T. …

STAY

Gili Castle Hostel I’m reliably informed is the best hostel on the island, there aren’t many but I will go and check that this information is correct (EDIT: yeah popped round it’s cool and has a climbing wall). Do not, I repeat, do not stay at Calypso Hostel, it is a literal shack with no air con and it’s expensive.

I stayed in Warna Bungalows, it’s the roughly the same price to stay in a private bungalow if you’re in a group as it is to stay in a hostel so treat yourself, also it’s still easy to meet people here even if you’re not in a hostel. it’s that small.

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My bungalow was the penthouse with it’s own roof terrace and pergola, and a cool dude named Rudi to look after us, he’s so nice he even FaceTimed me in Ubud after I left. Free breakfast and excellent service, plus massive beds and a sick bathroom means I had a terrific stay.

We paid 600,000 Rupiah per day between 4. Which when you consider a hostel with no a/c can be 130,000 Rupiah is pretty cheap (only £1 for luxury). Email me if you want to get in touch with Rudi and stay at Warna.

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Rudi and the gang

PLAY

Sama Sama, Rudy’s, the Beer Pong bar, all good, all on the same strip, every night is a party whatever your vibe, just walk outside your door and you’ll find a something fun to do. The music does err on the side of ‘all reggae all the time’ but, like, who doesn’t like reggae?!

WATER ACTIVITIES

Snorkelling, Paddle Boarding, Swim with turtles, surfing, diving, kayaking… you really can do it all here. The beach which borders the entire island is picturesque so even just swimming is lovely. Word to the wise though, the current is so powerful here so if you’re not a strong swimmer don’t stray too far from shore.

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THE BEST KEPT SECRET

Moonlight Bar which is on the right side of the island and is basically a shack with a speaker was home to some of the best times of my life, the owner Ari was so friendly and all his Indonesian mates were so lovely to us and gave us drinks, food and good times. Try the palm wine (pronounced ‘palom wine’) which is like Saki kinda and pink, and gross at first but then nice, and costs 7000 Rupiah per litre (or 40p). 

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About a ten minute bike ride up the left side of the island you’ll find some yellow tree houses where you can WATCH HORSES SWIM and take in the sunset with a beer.

TIPS AND TRICKS

Get a push bike, there’s no motor vehicles allowed on Gili T. so theres just bikes and horses. It’s pretty small so you can walk but biking is way more fun. You can cycle the entire island in under an hour – don’t pay more than 40,000 Rupoah for one days bike rental.

Download podcasts/music before you arrive as the wifi is shit. 

READ: MY TOP PODCASTS TO ENTERTAIN YOU WHILE TRAVELLING

The police come only twice a year to Gili so do as you please… 😉

Gili T. is a Muslim Island so there is a mosque and I swear it does the call to prayer more than 5 times a day. Mostly I like it but when you’re trying to nap it’s very annoying.

Getting here from mainland Bali costs 450,000 Rupiah (open return). The boa can be quite hot so I suggest falling asleep as soon as you board or siting outside for some great views and a nice breeze.

EATING

The night market and the local women sell the best and cheapest food, the night market had a pick ‘n’ mix salad kinda thing for £1 which is basically the Wholefoods salad bar only £7 cheaper. So tasty. I also tried fresh curried fish at Ari’s bar which was heaven – people just feed you here. You also must try a fish curry (anywhere) – divine!!!!!!

There’s so much more I could say about Gili T. but I wouldn’t want to ruin the surprise for you, but this place is as close to paradise as you can get. I’m seriously looking into buying land and building a cool little guest house here… stay tuned.

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Check out these blogs for Bali travel tips too:

The Blonde Abroad

The Blonde Abroad (again)

Tash Oakley

Huff Post

Zanna Van Dijk

 

 

 

Follow Me on Instagram

While I’m on my backpacking trip/ big fat excuse to have fun and not work I’m documenting my adventures every step of the way on Instagram. As much as I’d like to blog everyday, crappy wifi and a lack of time mean I can’t. But I snap 100s of photos each week and a lot make it on to Instagram. So follow me at @shereemilli (same for Twitter and Pinterest) for pics of jungles, beaches and ridiculous outfits! 💖

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Alchemy Ubud – The Best Smoothie Bowls in Bali

I can’t believe I found this place, it’s actually thanks to a guy I met on Tinder in Ubud who ultimately ghosted me but initially took me on a breakfast date here. I had breakfast here 5 days in a row, it’s that good. It’s also super chic and modern despite being in the middle of rice fields. You definitely need a scooter to get here but it’s so worth it. The decor, the vibe, the food of course…

The build-your-own smoothie bowl is beyond delicious. My favourite combination is: the Spirulina smoothie, dragon fruit, strawberry, banana, apple cinnamon granola, lemon and turmeric dairy-free whip, bee pollen, cinnamon, lime and mint. You will glow after this.

They also do a fantastic salad bar featuring everything from capers to kimchi, pumpkin seeds to pesto. There’s a huge selection of raw, vegan cakes and chocolates and lots of scrummy teas and coffees.

Alongside all this glorious food you can shop organic vegan cosmetics and accessories, I picked up some virgin coconut oil for my frazzled tresses.

Anyway, I could harp on all day about Alchemy but just go and see for yourself!

Alchemy, Jalan Penestanan Klod, Ubud, Bali 80571

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Koh Samui – My Thoughts

Full disclosure, I kind of went to Koh Samui for a boy… which went tits up, but the airport is here so you may end up needing to go too. It’s a disgusting place, but despite this I did have fun, but I would never, ever go again, even if you paid me.

If you’re British let me say this one word to you ‘Benidorm’, or another one ‘Magaluf’ . It’s a chavvy old place in Koh Samui, with a lot of fat, sunburned families with braided hair walking round eating McDonald’s. And it kinda smells.

I first stayed in a beach hut (Free House beach bungalows) in Bosphut because it was right next to the hotel of a boy I’d been on a date with in Chiang Mai and we’d arranged to meet. It was super boring and dull there, full of couples, with literally no entertainment but I was cool with that as I just wanted to turn my little hut into a loveshack.

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Sadly I got blown off come date time (the standard radio silence) and so decided to go to the Fisherman’s Market to meet some people I’d travelled with in India (hi Ellie and Jack) where I LITERALLY bumped into the hot guy I was meant to be on a date with, on a date with another girl!!!!! What is life??? Oh, btw the market is worth a visit, you can get anything there (even dumped).

I obviously ran home, grabbed a Chang, rolled a blunt and hotboxed my hut while watching Eastbound and Down. A crappy night somewhat salvaged.

I then moved to Rinny Hostel in Chaweng which is much busier but not in a good way, this place looked like Hackney-on-sea, just hideously ugly. I did have fun though, the hostel was weird and above a travel agents but was full of pretty cool people.

Arc on Chaweng Beach is where everyone parties but pre-drink because the drinks are expensive, 7/11s are everywhere and you can get rum for £3. I must admit I lost my shoes here so it must be good!

Lipsmackers beach bar is awesome, such nice people and you can buy weed there. I hung out with a big crew of Thai youfs there who took me out and got me so pissed and stoned I vomited. They were really nice, they even fed me.

While in Koh Samui I was a little bored during the day because in the cold harsh light it looked even worse, at night with a few vodkas down you KS is bearable, in the daytime there’s nowhere for it to hide. So to fight my boredom I got two tattoos (I was there 5 days), make sure you haggle because I got mine half price almost.

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All in all, don’t go… but if you must, follow my advice.

Koh Phangan & Why You Should Skip The Full Moon Party

When I was first planning my trip to Thailand The Full Moon Party was high on my bucket list, despite hearing more horror stories than glowing reviews, I mean it’s a big party on a beach, how could that not be fun right?!

My trip to Koh Phangan started interestingly when the hostel we’d booked (Wild & Wandering) was completely closed when we arrived, like chains-and-a-huge-padlock-round-the-front-doors closed. We waited in the blistering heat for 20 minutes and then went next door where we were told the owner had done a runner. Great.

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With my mate Lucy in KP

Now, accommodation during the Full Moon is way more expensive and hard to come by so I was lucky to find Lazy House Shenanigans (don’t let the name put you off) which is such a cool hostel with a pool and great sound system. You also get a free bucket everyday you stay, free entrance to the water park (which saves you £20) and a free BBQ on Full Moon day.

 

Koh Phangan itself is really pretty but there are a lot of terrible, terrible cafes and restaurants, overpriced bars and drunk 18 year olds. Also the sheer amount of shops selling neon tut is overwhelming. Definitely go to the waterpark in Haad Rin, it’s like an inflatable Total Wipeout in the ocean. Same Same Burger is LITERALLY one of the best burgers I’ve had anywhere in the world. I went three times in two days.

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Koh Phangan water park

Before the FMP I went to the Jungle Party which is like a proper rave in the jungle with sick music and at least 80% of the ravers were men. Happy days. It costs roughly £12 for a ticket but it’s well worth it, and I know my parties so take my word for it.

The FMP itself was a sh*tshow, as soon as we descended onto Haad Rin beach, my pals Lucy, Sinead and I knew it wasn’t for us. The disgusting sounds of Avicii were in the air and there were throngs of neon-painted gangs of German children everywhere, 18 year olds from Southampton pissing into the sea and Danish teens getting paralytic for the first time. In short, literally my worst nightmare.
So we decided to get a pirate boat on the beach (£3) to Haad Yuan where there’s a bar called Eden which hosts parties when it’s the Full Moon as a cooler alternative. Be warned the boat across is treacherous and I genuinely thought I was gonna fall into the ocean. The trip to Eden from the beach will find you skipping up rocks, tip-toeing across precarious rope bridges and scaling great heights… quite the adventure. Especially when you’ve just had a shroom shake (my first time, super fun).

When you finally arrive at Eden you’ll be greeted by some sick-ass hippies, INCREDIBLE MUSIC and some questionable health and safety… as it was my first foray into the world of magic mushrooms, I was waiting to ‘come up’ not knowing exactly the effects, when I suddenly felt my whole body start vibrating, ‘sh*t these things are strong’ I thought, then my hair started to stand on end and I felt a weird burning sensation… As it turned out I was being electrocuted by a loose wire on the deck. Yep, hippies aren’t that conscientious when it comes to wiring, but I have never laughed so much in my life.

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Eden!

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Try getting over that bridge drunk…

So the FMP was not for me, I honestly think if you’re reading this blog you’d probably hate it too, but Eden is one of the best parties I’ve ever been to, and the Jungle Party is far superior to the FMP. Koh Phangan is definitely a place to party but just not where you’d think. Oh and I did not wear any neon, I went full glitter FYI.

Koh Tao I Love You

Koh Tao was the first time I saw the sea in Thailand having spent half a month up north in the wonderful Chiang Mai and Pai, so it was exciting for that reason alone, but also it’s a flipping wonderful little island. Read on for my hot tips.

Where to stay

I stayed in GoodTimes Hostel which is *right* on the beach, and when I say ‘right on the beach’ I am not kidding, it took me all of 10 seconds to run into the ocean each morning. The dorm rooms here are pretty luxe and have balconies overlooking the beach. It’s a little pricy for a hostel at £11 a night but worth it for a couple of nights as a treat.

Where to party

Sairee Beach is full of great bars and clubs and if you walk along the shore then you’re bound to find somewhere to party. Personally I loved Rock Bar, and if you walk by outside enough you’ll get a ton of free shot tokens which can all be redeemed at once making for a very cheap night. There fire dancers there are also sooooo good. Check out Maya and Lotus bar too.

Where to Eat

There’s loads of places to eat here, Indie Cafe does a great breakfast bagel, Samantha does a fab burger and Ban’s Restaurant does the best mediterranean salad with prosciutto ever. You may note I mention only western food here, this is because I had the vilest Thai food here, with literal sugar poured into it. Yuk.

What to do

Swim, snorkle, paddle board, snog boys, get a tattoo… seriously, it’s a small island so there’s not much to ‘do’ but it’s such a gorgeous beach, what more could a gal need?

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