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G-Adventures ‘India on a Shoestring’ Review

Overview

G-Adventures offers tours for young travelers all over the world including several tours through India. The ‘India on a Shoestring’ tour is 20 days traveling around Rajasthan or the ‘golden triangle’ and takes in many of the most famous sites of the area starting and ending in Delhi.

Highlights

I personally enjoyed the lesser-known (to me anyway) places we visited such as; Pushkar, Bikaner and Udaipur. As they were smaller it was easier to head off alone and do some exploring. The trip into the Thar desert was pretty amazing, and the food the local people cooked there was so tasty it’s hard to believe they cooked it in the middle of nowhere, without a kitchen. The river ganges was beautiful too and a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

What’s right with it…

The itinerary ensures you take in lots of things you wouldn’t if you were traveling solo, such as visiting the tiny village of Tordi Sagarh, eating at a Sikh temple and staying at THIS amazing hotel. The pace is quite fast and you get to see a hell of a lot of India in a short space of time, which if you were travelling alone, you would probably go much slower.

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What’s wrong with it…

Traveling with 18 people is not for everyone and I found myself craving alone time, especially in places like the Taj Mahal where I wanted to soak in the majesty peacefully but there were 10 Brits screaming and shouting wildly just behind me. Also the emphasis is on ‘group fun’ instead of taking in the culture of a place – certain towns such a Jodhpur, which we stayed in for just one afternoon, were overlooked in favour of an activity, in that case ziplining. I chose to explore the town instead of doing ziplining but the tour leader made me feel like a right miserable tit. But, I’m 28, I don’t need ‘activities’ to enjoy myself, being in a new place is enjoyment enough for me.

I also feel like there’s a lot more room to learn about the language and culture of India on this trip but my attempts on this point were futile. So it’s a bit like being in the Big Brother house, seeing the same faces day in day out – this may just be me being curmudgeonly though, I realise I’m more of a ‘table for one’ person than most, but I’m sure the majority of people value their personal time too.

Value for money?

The initial fee seems reasonable but everything is extra, which I wasn’t prepared for – so there’s a lot of tuk tuk rides and entry fees you’ll have to shell out for. Also the tour leader took us to a lot of really expensive restaurants for lunch and dinner, which if I was traveling alone I’d have got street food (which is so good but a tenth of the price), but if you’re in an unfamiliar place at night you are kind of forced to eat where you’re told. There were also a couple of instances where the tour leader took us to shops on the ruse that it was a cool experience but it was somewhere she was getting a commission to bring us in.

Verdict

India is so beautiful and I’m happy I got to see it, and so much of it. I feel like booking all the elements myself would have been a bit too large of a task, especially the indian trains and buses – so for that alone it’s worth it. Sometimes I felt like I was on a school trip which, frankly, I’m too old for, and ultimately I really wanted to leave the confines of the group. If you’re happy in situations where you have no autonomy then this tour is amazing, but if you’re a bit of a lone wolf or a free spirit, you may find this trip a little stifling.

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Notes:

-The ages of the group ranged from 18 to 30, with about 70% being under 25.
-Don’t get sucked into doing all the optional activities, it’s your holiday/trip – go out on your own.
-Take a student card for discounts at historical sites.
-Budget twice as much as you think.

Pai – Thailand’s Best Kept Secret

Let me first start by saying Pai is a f*cking magical place and you should all go, like now. It’s also the place I honed my hula hoop skills and the place in which I was welcomed to my hut by a man bearing *literal* crystals (when I asked what the different coloured gems were for he relied “healing”, “what all of them?”, “probably”.). Yes it’s a hippie commune by all intents and purposes, yes you may laugh at the impossibly zen staff there who float by with coloured dreads and tanned skin, but it’s so much more than that.

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Despite my bohemian tendencies, a hippie I am not, career hippies bore me, it’s kinda passé and they listen to the most boring music. Pai welcomes all; from the dreadlocked stoner to the bucket-hatted shuffler and all have a bloody great time.
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My fondest memory is being high in the pool listening to Rihanna ‘Wok’ and watching an american girl practice her interpretive dance skills for an hour – no judgement,, that’s not very Pai. I’m using the tern Pai and Pai Circus School interchangeably because the Circus school *is* Pai. There is another hostel called Purple Monkey but the residents there all come to Circus in the day for messing around with the slackline or at night for a dance and a smoke.
Shout out to Adam from Camden Town who DJed some sweet house by the pool one evening, it had an Ibiza vibe without any posers and I loved it.
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I also loved our little hut, which due to the mountains was cool enough to sleep comfortably in at night, sure it was basic, but with a mini speaker, some beers and a great Spotify playlist – it was perfect.
I met so many wonderful people from around the world and the vibe here is very much ‘talk to everyone’ so if you’re a solo traveller you’ll make friends in an instant.
The town of Pai is super lively to say it’s so small, there’s lots of street food (best veggie lasagne I’ve ever eaten, I thank you), bars, restaurants and organic food cafes – if you like juices then this is the place for you! Almost Famous bar is worth a visit but they’re all close together, just pop in wherever is poppin’.
So in conclusion this little hippie haven may be small but it will make a helluva impression! It did on me.
To get to Pai from Chiang Mai you can take a bus for 200THB (£4) which takes around 3 hours. Tickets will normally be available from your hostel or one of the many travel agents in CM.

Living in a Bikini When You Don’t Have a ‘Bikini Body’

One of my biggest trepidations about going travelling, especially to Thailand where I am now, was my body.

I’ve spoken previously on the blog about rejecting the media’s portrayal of the perfect female form, and I do stand by that. It’s just hard to wash away 20 years of body neuroses in an instant.

I went travelling right after Xmas. With the Christmas weight of a girl who knew she wouldn’t be home for a long time. I honestly thought I’d lose weight in India due to Delhi belly but sadly/gladly the food was so tremendous I gained weight! Even a bad case of food poisoning didn’t make a dent in my behind.

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Koh Phangan water park

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Belfie’s in Koh Tao

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Ab-Free Zone

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How could I miss out on THIS?!

And so the time came to shed the layers and get into beach life in Thailand. Honestly the first time I put in a bikini I had a nervy spasm. You know when you look at your body and think ‘who even is that?’.

Inevitably when you’re in a tropical paradise there will be beautiful lithe women who make you feel inferior, but, like what was I gonna do? Never swim? It’s 37 degrees.

So really the fact that I’m sweaty mess helped me get over my bikini-fear. And I noticed that no one is really looking at my body. There are so many half naked people around and when you analyse each body, they’re kinda all the same. All beautiful, and the variations are so minimal when you really think about it. Especially with beachy waves and sunkissed skin.

For the past 3 weeks I have been living in a bikini – often cursing my belly or thighs for not conforming- but more often just enjoying salt water on my skin and the fact I’m in paradise.

So to anyone nervous about getting that beach body. Fuck it, you’re on the beach, that’s your beach body.

#bodypositive

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Backpacker Fashion: The Headscarf

Main photo credit: Giambatista Valli copyright Vogue Runway

If you take one item backpacking with you… make it your passport. LOL. But do take a fashionable scarf. It can be used as , well, a scarf, to tie around a bag. as a neckerchief, bracelet, bandeau and as a headscarf or hairband. This will protect your hair from the sun and hide cray cray hair from strangers too. Plus it looks super cool when teamed with some big sunglasses and you don’t need a stitch of hair or makeup either!

Check out this tutorial on how to tie a headscarf:

 

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A bold headscarf hides a bad hair day

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Eva Mendes looks chic in shades and a scarf

ASOS has a fab range of scarves HERE

Chiang Mai, Thailand – What to Do & See

Chiang Mai in the North of Thailand is a definite must-do on your Thai backpacking trip or holiday. Plus it’s a pit-stop on the way to wonderful Pai (more on that later). To get there from Bangkok you can fly but there’s an a/c overnight train for just £18 which is very comfortable. Chiang Mai is a super cool, chilled town and full of backpackers and ex-pats read on to see what’s the sitch up in CM.


BARS & CLUBS

Because we all need a Chang now and again, right? One note, all the clubs and bars in CM close at midnight but they’re all a short walk from each other.

Zoe’s

Zoe’s is a sprawling indoor/outdoor complex of several bars to suit all but the most niche music tastes. Great for chilling out in the evening and catching up with friends.

Zoe’s in Yellow, Rajvithi Road, เชียงใหม่ 50200

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Spicy

This club opens a little later most nights so you can dance away to floor fillers until 2am. Lots of talent here too.

Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai

Night Market

There are several night markets in CM but one thing they all have in common is great street food, cheap beer and a chilled outside vibe. There are some with live music too – I saw a really very good Thai Ska band!


 

ACTIVITIES

It’s not all about chirpsin’ and partying, Chiang mai is an area of outstanding beauty with loads of things to do just outside the city.

Muay Thai Fight at Thapae Stadium

The art of Muay Thai is a fantastic sport to watch and Chiang Mai is famed for its matches at the Thapae Stadium. Watch ladies, kids and blindfolded people battle it out in front of a mainly western audience. Such a fun night out.

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Feed The Elephants

Around Chiang Mai there are about 50 elephant parks and sanctuaries, I would strongly suggest you don’t ride elephants as they’re not horses and the harnesses are very painful for them. I fed and swam with them which was awesome, go into any local travel agent and they’ll be able to recommend you an elephant experience in your budget and timeframe.

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Trekking, Rafting, Bamboo Rafting, Waterfalls

I went rafting and bamboo rafting and to see a waterfall and aside from being bloody good fun it’s also an incredibly good workout. Pack trainers, bikini and a sports bra. Again, book at a travel agents in CM.

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WHERE TO EAT

My favourite bit of CM, after the greasy junk-food of BKK, this place is a health-food haven.

Mamory Delicious

The name is faintly ridiculous but this romantic, cute restaurant serves up the freshest Thai food. Like, every ingredient shines in their dishes, try the insane papaya salad – heaven!

Mamory Delicious, Ratmakka Rd, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200

Juicy 4u

Vegan and veggie food and amazing fresh juices and shots. After a night out an apple, beetroot and ginger juice sorts you right out. Also they play a lovely bit of reggae and the staff are so sound.

Juicy 4u, Ratchamanka 5, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai

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Salad Concept

There are two Salad Concepts in CM and both of them do a beautiful chicken caesar wrap, have great wifi and cool air con surroundings. Their build your own salads are amazing – and how healthy!?

Salad Concept, 94 Chai Sri Poom Soi 1, Chiang Mai, Thailand
Salad Concept, Nimmarnhemin Road Soi 13,

 

 

Sustainable Fashion – What Does It Mean & How Can You Help?

 

Main photo: A clothes factory in Burma Ph. Steve McCurry 

The older I get, the more my conscience niggles me about things that would have never crossed my mind in my early twenties. Our generation is the first that grew up with fast fashion; we were, and are,able to get our mitts on designer-influenced duds at rock-bottom prices. And if you’re anything like me, you took advantage of this. I used to definitely subscribe to the quantity over quality mode of buying, treating myself to new clothes on a weekly basis. The bulk of which would be worn once, never to be seen again – sound familiar? Now I’d rather buy less, maybe spend a bit more, but certainly I think about clothing that will have longevity.

Now I’m not saying we all become eco-warriors, start boycotting Topshop and only wear hemp BUT I think we could all be more considered when buying and caring for our clothes. No person needs 50 dresses, why not buy fewer that you really, really like? We’ve lost the skill of caring for our clothes and treasuring them, so I think a change is in order. I love fashion, but the current trend for fast fashion is no longer sustainable. With that in mind, here are some ideas for us all to lesson the impact of our insatiable thirst for fashion.

When we buy lots and we buy cheap, there’s a always a cost; the sweatshop labourers in India, China or Pakistan who work incredibly long hours, in unsafe factories for a pittance. The environmental impact and CO2 emissions from the production of synthetic fibres and the vast machines used to create the clothing. And the landfill when we inevitably throw these poorly-made garments away – they are often made of cheap, easy to care for, man made fibres like acrylic and nylon (which are essentially plastic) that aren’t biodegradable.

MAKE DO AND MEND

Do you repair your clothes when they fall apart or get tears or lose buttons? Or do you just throw them away? Our parents and grandparents would care for their favourite clothes and patch, mend or darn them for years – extending their lifespan and removing the need to keep constantly buying replacements. If your garments are terribly made and alway fall to bits, maybe consider buying better quality so you don’t have to keep replacing them.

A Make Do & Mend book from the 1940s.

Some tips for caring for your wardrobe

  • Always follow the washing and drying instructions.
  • Dry clean more expensive items like coats and cashmere.
  • Hang clothes carefully – don’t use wire hangers.
  • Keep a sewing kit with any spare buttons, beads or sequins from clothes.
  • Tailors are quite inexpensive, use them to make minor repairs and alterations.

BUY ETHICAL

Reformation is an American brand who pride themselves on offsetting their carbon footprint, completely. They also repurpose vintage fabric, make all their garments in their own eco-friendly factory where employees are paid fairly and working conditions are above standard, and educate their buyers about ‘green’ fashion‘. Aside from all that, their clothes are gorgeous, like super nice, proving that eco fashion isn’t all burlap sacks and Birkenstocks.

www.thereformation.com 

 

Swedish retailer H&M have an initiative whereby customers can drop off their unwanted clothing in exchange for a £5 voucher to use in-store within 6 months. They’re also currently running a $1m competition to find a new solution to recycling their clothes and creating a sustainable fashion model. They do try to recycle the donated items at the moment but due to lots of cheap fashion items being made from mixed fibres, this is proving difficult.

A voucher from H&M, if you donate a bag of clothes, you get £5 off your next buy.

ONE GIRL’S TRASH…

I am all for giving clothes a new home or a new purpose and so sites like eBay and Depop are great to sell and buy unwanted clothing. Anything that stops them going to landfill! Any time you have a wardrobe clear out, try and think about the garments your don’t want anymore and how you can avoid throwing them n the bin:

 

  • Can they be repaired or cleaned?
  • Can they be altered or customised? Cut off jeans. Dye tees. Use iron-on patches.
  • Can you resell the item on Vestiaire Collective, eBay or Depop?
  • Can you sell it at a car boot sale?
  • Can you donate the item to charity or a clothing bank?
  • Can you use the fabric for something else? A craft project/cushion cover?
  • If all else fails use old t-shirts as cleaning rags!



How do you feel about fast fashion and the impact it has on the environment, and what do you do to combat it? Even if you only do a tiny bit, every little bit helps – lets treasure our clothes more, buy less, buy smart and look after what we’ve got.


 

What To Do in Bangkok

Let me start by saying I wasn’t immediately sold on Bangkok, and I’m still a little unsure – it’s busy, hot and sprawling and did I mention relentlessly hot? Seriously, it’s the only place I’ve visited that somehow manages to get hotter at night. Anyway, I gave it a fair crack and here’s what I suggest you do with 2 or 3 days in BKK. Don’t stay any longer or you’ll go cray.

STAY AT NAPPARK

If you’re backpacking in Thailand you’ll probably start off in BKK and you’ll most probably wanna stay around the backpacking mecca that is Koh San Road, however it is very mental there. So stay just round the corner at Nappark Hostel which is a luxe alternative to really scuzzy traveller digs. It has great bathroom and shower facilities, which you’ll need and is under £10 a night.

Nappark Hostel, 5 Tani, Talat Yot, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10110

JJ GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

This was far and away my favourite thing in BKK, a huge, sprawling night market much like Streetfeast in London, with loads of hipsters and not many tourists. There are an abundance of bars, street food and clothing stalls. We went to a super cool hip hop bar called Turnt Up that played mainly Rihanna, J.Cole and Lil Wayne and had the most fantastic time. This is a must-do.

JJ. Green Vintage Market, Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900

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SOI EKKAMAI

This a nice alternative place to parry if the Koh San Road is just too much for you, I guess you’d call this the equivalent to London’s East End (Shoreditch, Dalston). Coincidentally it’s in the East of BKK too. There are absolutely loads of bars here and a lot of them are pretty cheap, but you’ll get more ex-pats and locals here rather than backpackers and a much better class of music to boogie to. A taxi here from Koh San will be no more than 170THB (£3.40).

Here’s some Soi Ekkamai bar suggestions>>>

DARKROOM

Darkroom is a cool and moody club that’s home to hip hop and old school r’n’b nights. The pic below is actually my British mate Simon DJing his night Pageant there. Cheap drinks and a great-looking crowd.

Darkroom, Soi Sukhumvit 63 – Soi Charoen Mit, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110

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KOH SAN ROAD – One night only

This is the big backpacker attraction a busy road full of bars and clubs, unfortunately they’re all of the kind of Malia/Benidorm/Kavos persuasion but fun nonetheless. I can’t suggest a single one as they’re all exactly the same. Here’s how I tacked the road: cheap pad thai and Chang beer, Ping Pong show, Lots more Chang, Buckets of booze, dancing in the street to sorry by Justin Beiber, having far too much laughing gas, eating a Scorpion and enjoying it. Raging hangover in the morning.

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Backpacker Fashion: The Crochet Crop Top

There are certain items of clothing that you just can’t get away with wearing in ‘real life’, one of those is crochet anything. It’s just not aprops if it’s not on the beach. However when backpacking, anything goes, so make sure you’re not left out and nab yourself a crochet crop top. You can get them for as little as £3 and they’re so cute. Be sure to do a few abdominal crunches before you rock one!

She Made Me do amazing crochet clothing

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The Dreaded Delhi Belly and How it Nearly Broke Me…

Call it hubris, cockiness or just plain stupidity but I *honestly* thought I would avoid Delhi belly while travelling. I’ve never been ill because of food, I’m the person who eats with a group who all get food poisoning and remain unscathed, my stomach is legendarily strong.

 

That’s not to say I wasn’t careful, I didn’t eat meat for a month while in India, avoided tap water and religiously sanitised my hands – seriously, what more can you do? And I thought I was safe, I lasted one month feeling fantastic, so on the second to last night (in an expensive western restaurant, it’s never the street food) I indulged in some chicken.

On the afternoon before my flight to Bangkok I began to feel *really* sick, I was sweating, nauseous and confused and just had to go to bed. Then the vomiting started. Now, before that, the last time I vomited was 2 years ago after the Hotbox London launch party where I drank 435 free cocktails and ate a whole cow, and before that… years. I hate being sick, some people do it on a reg, but I have basically no gag reflex so in order for me to be sick, it means serious shit is going down.

Now I’m being sick, but did I mention, I was in a hostel? People everywhere. The first few times I was sick I managed to make it to the loo. The 27th time, I was so weak that I couldn’t make it down from the TOP BUNK BED I was on and so projectile vomited, from a height, all over the bedroom floor, Three times. Luckily it was just water and bile, but, gross!

I can deal with vomiting (just), but these episodes were every thirty minutes and were so violent they were jerking my body around like The Exorcist. Not great when you have an 8am flight the next morning. Convinced I was going to miss it, I slept next to my bag in the lobby (near the loo) to wait for my taxi. Not that I had any sleep.

Dehydrated and disorientated I thankfully made it on to my flight where I fought the urge to vom until we were safely in the air (there was no way I was getting removed from my flight). Once at cruising altitude I proceeded to be sick all down my front. I gave zero fucks. Zero.

By the time I landed in Bangkok I was a walking, stinking zombie – I looked such a sight that the customs officer saw fit to beckon over his colleague to literally crease at me. They had tears in their eyes.

As soon as I got to the luxury hostel my mum had booked me, which was a godsend because I wanted no human contact and a good shower, I washed and slept for the first time in 36 hours. And I felt a bit better.

Then the cramps started, and I mean like Alien ripping out of your torso cramps. Have you seen the scene in nightmare on Elm Street where the girl is writing across the ceiling because she’s being murdered by an invisible Freddie Krueger? That was me, yet again in a fucking bunk bed. These cramps were so bad that I had to bite down on a pillow to stop myself from screaming. When I lifted up my sweat-stained top I could see my stomach spasming. This continued for 48 hours.

The only good point in this saga was that I had avoided the shits… until I shat myself in the shower. Yep. That happened.

Tips For Preventing Food Poisoning/Delhi Belly

There’s nothing you can do. Unless you don’t eat anything except crisps… even then. Just enjoy the food, it’s all part of the experience. And wash your hands on the regs.

Tips For Getting Through Delhi Belly

Drink LOTS of water. Buy some ORS (oral rehydration solution) sachets to replace lost salts. If you have severe cramps, go to a pharmacy and buy some Spascopan, or Buscopan to relieve them. Rest. Rest. Rest.

Silver Lining…

You might lose weight.

 

Main photo: people bathing in the River Ganges, sure to give you Delhi Belly

 

 

En Route To… Thailand

I am currently at New Delhi Airport, ready to fly to Bangkok. I’m super excited to get to some beaches, meet my old housemate Sinead (who will be flying from the UK to Bangkok in a few days) and go to the Full Moon Party!

India was amazing, read all my India travel posts here and I’ll see you in Thailand.